Caliber's TT: Watch Enthusiasm Through 3 Iconic Timepieces - My Cartier Trio

Cartier is a name synonymous with luxury, craftsmanship, and heritage. For over a century, Cartier has been at the crossroads of horology and fine jewellery, creating masterpieces that are celebrated around the world. I have long been a great admirer (and supporter) of the brand, from buying my first gift for my ex-girlfriend (now wife), engagement bands, receiving a pair of watches as wedding gifts, you name it. In this post, I want to share my personal experience with three standout timepieces from my collection: the Cartier Tank Must, Cartier Santos Dumont, and Cartier Ronde Solo De Cartier. But first, let’s explore a bit of history and address a question often asked: is Cartier primarily a jewellery brand or a watchmaker?

More Jewelry or Watch Brand?

Cartier’s origins trace back to Paris, France in 1847, when Louis-François Cartier took over his master’s workshop. Initially, Cartier built its reputation as a jeweller to royalty, crafting exquisite pieces for the elites. By the time his grandsons Louis, Pierre, and Jacques took over, the brand had expanded its reach globally, with boutiques in London, New York, and beyond.

Although jewellery is bedrock of Cartier, the brand made a significant impact on the watchmaking world. In 1904, Louis Cartier revolutionised watch design with the creation of the Cartier Santos, one of the first wristwatches ever made (for men). This pioneering step carved out a path for Cartier as a serious watchmaker, cementing its place in the horological world.

Today, Cartier strikes a fine balance between jewellery and watchmaking, excelling in both. Its watches are known for combining aesthetic beauty with technical precision, which explains why Cartier remains one of the most respected names in both industries.

I have recently "completed" my trio of Cartier watches, which I wanted to fulfil since having the Tri-Hexa watch box. Although they are nowhere near sensational timepieces, but the value and sentiment they hold, definitely make me proud to own them. So here we go...

Tank Must De Cartier, reference WSTA0072

The Cartier Tank Must Black is a modern homage to the iconic Cartier Tank, a design originally introduced in 1917. (You can read more from Hodinkee here) The Tank was inspired by the shape of WWI military tanks, but its sleek rectangular case and clean lines redefined elegance in watchmaking.

The Must collection brought fresh interpretations of this classic, and the all-black version is a testament to Cartier’s ability to blend tradition with contemporary design. The understated elegance of this piece makes it a versatile companion for any occasion. For me, it’s the simplicity of the Tank Must Black that makes it stand out – it whispers sophistication, instead of shouting it. Finally who needs to know the exact minute of the time when we always have our smart phones with us anyway?

Cartier Santos Dumont, reference WSSA0022

The Santos Dumont holds a special place in the history of horology. It was designed by Louis Cartier for his friend, aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont, in 1904, making it one of the earliest wristwatches. This innovation wasn’t just functional but also transformed the wristwatch from a purely utilitarian item into a fashion statement. Talk about bromance!

The square case, with its iconic exposed screws, is a design that still resonates today. Despite retaining that classic aviation-inspired design, it also has a refined elegance that makes it just as appropriate for formal settings. It’s a watch that blends historical significance with modern luxury. The patented lugs of the Cartier Santos Dumont are a distinctive design feature that sets the watch apart. These lugs are integral to the watch's history and design evolution, and they are known for their unique integration with the case and strap.

The lugs are designed to blend smoothly with the watch case, giving the Santos Dumont its clean and iconic shape. The design makes the watch appear cohesive and elegant, ensuring that the case and strap transition harmoniously. Finally the lugs help improve the wearability of the watch by ensuring that the strap wraps comfortably around the wrist. This feature enhances the overall comfort for the wearer, especially for a small wrist person like myself.

Ronde Solo De Cartier reference WSRN0029

The Cartier Ronde Solo De Cartier is an embodiment of classic round watch design. With its Roman numerals, railroad minute track, and blue sword-shaped hands, it showcases the timeless appeal that Cartier is known for. Introduced as part of Cartier’s Ronde collection, this model offers a perfect balance between simplicity and refinement.

I find the Ronde Solo to be a versatile timepiece. Its sleek, minimalist design is perfect for both formal occasions and casual outings. What truly attracts me is its ability to blend tradition with modernity, making it suitable for any event. Additionally, the strap of the Ronde Solo is adjustable simply by bending it, which adds to its comfort and ease of wear. Naturally, the most sentimental piece of the three is the Ronde Solo, as it was a gift from my mum when I got married.

Cartier’s dual mastery of watchmaking and jewellery is evident in my collection of the Cartier Tank Must Black, Cartier Santos Dumont, and Cartier Ronde Solo De Cartier, okay not so much of the latter. Each watch tells a unique story while remaining true to the brand’s core principles of elegance, craftsmanship, and timeless design. Whether Cartier is more of a jewellery or watch brand depends on who you ask, but one thing is certain: few brands can rival Cartier's ability to excel in both arenas. For me, Cartier is more a watch brand than jewellery (it's not surprising right?).

These watches serve not only as beautiful timepieces but also as reminders of Cartier’s rich legacy and my own journey as a collector. Each one adds a layer of history and sophistication to my collection, making them irreplaceable. Who knows, maybe someday I will also get hook on to Cartier's impeccable jewellery lineup, then perhaps my decision will change?