Caliber's TT: Watch Enthusiasm Through 3 Iconic Timepieces - Mr W (@thetimechipper)
- Roy @ Caliber
- Jan 5
- 6 min read
Updated: Apr 13
In the world of watch collecting, every timepiece tells a story, and for some collectors, the narrative extends beyond the iconic names to include creations from boutique ateliers that excel in craftsmanship and uniqueness. This particular three-watch collection reflects a refined pursuit of individuality, blending timeless classics from celebrated giants with pieces that stand out for their exclusivity and artistry. The collector, whose profession demands precision and a steady hand, has a keen eye for details that others might overlook—a trait mirrored in his admiration for Grand Seiko. As a true aficionado, he is drawn to the quiet brilliance of this brand, often gravitating toward models limited to the Japanese domestic market, where understated elegance meets technical mastery. His collection not only reveals a love for horological artistry but also a deep appreciation for the subtle nuances that elevate a watch from an accessory to an heirloom. His Instagram handle is also a reflection of his personality - a chipper!
Rolex Explorer 1 (39mm): 214270
The first piece in this three-watch collection is the iconic Rolex Explorer 39mm (reference 214270), a timepiece that represents the beginning of the collector’s journey into the world of automatic watches. Known for its rugged versatility and understated design, the Explorer is a watch that seamlessly transitions from the boardroom to the outdoors. Its 39mm case strikes the perfect balance between presence and wearability, while the clean black dial with luminous hour markers exudes timeless sophistication. As the collector’s first automatic watch, it carries immense sentimental value, symbolizing a pivotal moment in their growing passion for horology.
Q: So what significance does it have?
This piece is the Rolex Explorer 1, reference 214270. It’s 39mm in diameter and it was discontinued in 2021.
This is particularly significant for me as firstly, it was a milestone piece to mark a significant life event for me, and it was also my first luxury watch. I got this at a time where you could just walk into a Rolex boutique and pick out what you liked, without having to join a waitlist with no end in sight. I must confess that when I got this, I was just beginning to start out in watch collecting and didn’t know that much about watches – hence one of the reasons I got this was also because I didn’t have to worry about having to set the date.
Q: What about on a personal level and your impression of it?
Even though I don’t wear it as often anymore, it holds value to me because it was my first luxury watch, my first Rolex, and it represented a professional milestone for me in my career.
Overall, I like how it feels on the wrist – it has a low profile and doesn’t get in the way when you wear long sleeves or a suit. It has a nice symmetrical dial, and being a history buff I do like it’s connection to the Mount Everest expedition.
Grand Seiko: SBGJ225G
The second piece is the Grand Seiko SBGJ225G, a stunning GMT watch that reflects the collector’s admiration for the brand’s attention to detail and technical mastery. With a vibrant sunburst blue dial that dances in the light, accented by a bold yellow/gold GMT hand, this watch showcases Grand Seiko’s renowned Zaratsu polishing and impeccable finishing. Equipped with the high-beat 9S86 movement, it delivers precision and reliability, embodying the brand’s ethos of combining functionality with beauty. Limited to the Asian countries outside of Japan (which makes it even more exclusive), this piece speaks to the collector’s desire to own watches that are not only visually striking but also exclusive and unique in their class.
Q: What significance does it have?
This runs on Grand Seiko's hi-beat automatic movement, and comes in a case shape known as the “44GS”. It comes in a textured blue dial, meant to resemble a Japanese weaving pattern/technique known as “Kasuri”, which happens to be the nickname for this model. It is a limited edition of 250, which was made specifically for the Asian market outside of Japan.
Why is this a significant one for me? I think many of my friends know Grand Seiko is my favourite brand, and this model was the one that started that journey for me, being my first Grand Seiko. I was actually eyeing another model but ended up getting this one and in a way it was somewhat fate that this particular one just arrived in the store when I decided to get it. Since then, I’ve dived much further into the brand and picked up a few more, but I still wear this one from time to time.
Q: What impression does it give you?
One of the issues I had with their GMT models was the thickness of the cases, but I think once you get mesmerized by the dials you kind of forget the little flaws here and there. People like to complain about GS bracelets but honestly I don’t have a big issue with this one. The polishing technique that GS uses (called Zaratsu) really brings out the shine in the angular 44GS case, and the caseback is see-through to allow you to appreciate the movement with its Tokyo Stripes.
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional: 310.30.42.50.04.001
Rounding out the collection is the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional (reference 310.30.42.50.04.001), often referred to as the "White Panda" Speedmaster. This modern interpretation of the legendary Moonwatch pairs the classic design with a striking white dial contrasted by black sub-dials. A timeless homage to Omega’s role in space exploration, this watch is powered by the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 3861, combining heritage with cutting-edge technology. The collector was drawn to this model for its perfect blend of history, functionality, and contemporary flair, making it a versatile and deeply meaningful addition to their lineup.
Q: What significance does this piece have?
This is the Omega Speedmaster with a white lacquered dial, released in 2024. To be honest, before this one, I knew next to nothing about Omega or Speedmasters, and the closest things I had to it were a few Moonswatches I picked up during the hype.
This one happens to be my first Omega, my first Speedmaster, and also something I bought to commemorate a significant moment/memory. It was also by chance that I got this one, as I was browsing and looking at a white dialed version in precious metal (which I had no idea at the time, initially). The SA offered to show me the one in steel and I was mesmerized by the lacqured white dial and the contrast that the red elements had on the dial (reminded me a bit of NASA in a way). They didn’t have one on bracelet but it wasn’t a big issue for me – I bought it on a black leather strap and swapped it out for a Delugs rubber strap shortly after.
Q: What is its value for you?
It holds value to me because like the other 2, it represents my first foray into a brand, and this one also marked a significant memory in my personal life. I think it’s nice to be able to look at an inanimate object like a watch and have it jolt your memory and bring you back to a particular time and place just by looking at it. Probably an expensive way to relive some memories though, but everyone has their own poison!
Q: Your impression of this Speedmaster?
I like the low profile of this one, and it sits nicely on the wrist, which I suppose is contributed by the fact that it’s a manual-wind piece. Although its 42mm in diameter, it wears smaller than that. The caseback is also see-through and because the movement is a manual-wind one, you can really appreciate the intricacies in the movement. This is actually my first manual-wind piece, which I previously hesitated on because of the potential hassle of having to keep winding the watch to keep it running, but I guess being able to appreciate the movement without a rotor obscuring the view is a nice touch.
This 3-watch collection embodies a balance of heritage, versatility, and personal expression. Each timepiece tells its own story while complementing the others, creating a collection that feels complete without redundancy. Whether you're an enthusiast or just beginning your journey, these watches remind us that collecting is as much about the joy of ownership as it is about the memories and experiences they accompany.
I'm also incredibly interested in meeting and getting to know fellow watch collectors. If you have a 3-watch collection with a story to share—regardless of the brands or styles—I’d love to feature it. Every collection has a unique tale, and it’s these stories that truly bring our passion for watches to life. Here's to the next Caliber's TT post!
